Frequently Asked Questions

It depends on the foam and the area. HomeGuide's national ranges are about $1.50 to $3.50 per square foot for open cell and $3.00 to $5.00 for closed cell at typical thicknesses, and 2 inches of closed cell lands around R-10 to R-14 at R-5 to R-7 per inch. We price by the square footage and thickness of each area, and the written estimate is your price.

Foam itself is not food for mold, but wood and dust behind or beside it can grow mold if water keeps getting in. That is why we look for roof leaks, plumbing drips and wet framing first and fix the moisture plan before spraying. In a humid place like Shreveport, sealing the attic or crawl space properly also means planning how that space will stay dry.

Spray foam is a plastic and will burn, so building codes generally require it to be covered by a thermal barrier such as drywall in living spaces, or an ignition barrier coating in some attics and crawl spaces. Some foams are made with fire retardants and tested for specific uses. We tell you which covering or coating your space needs and include it in the quote.

Louisiana's energy code treats the state as Climate Zone 2, and the Insulation Institute's summary lists R-38 for ceilings in new homes. For existing homes the Department of Energy recommends R-49 to R-60 for an uninsulated attic in Zone 2, or adding R-38 to R-49 where 3 to 4 inches already exist.

Open cell costs less per inch and works well under roof decks and in interior walls, at about R-3.5 to R-3.7 per inch. Closed cell runs about R-5 to R-7 per inch, slows vapor and resists water, so it fits crawl space walls, rim joists, metal buildings and tight spaces. Many houses use both, plus blown-in on open attic floors.

HomeGuide advises leaving for 24 hours or more while the foam cures. We ventilate the work area during and after spraying and tell you when the space is ready to use again.

SWEPCO's weatherization page says it helps pay for insulation, caulking and weatherstripping through approved contractors, and income-qualified households may get those measures at no cost. Ask whether your installer is on SWEPCO's approved list before signing.

Yes, it is widely used under roof decks in hot, humid climates when the attic is sealed and brought inside the conditioned space. The attic then needs to be treated as part of the house, with the right coatings or coverings where the code calls for them. We explain what your attic would need before you decide.

A tighter house loses less cool air, but it also needs a plan for fresh air and moisture. Louisiana's code sets a limit of 7 air changes per hour at 50 pascals for new homes, so a sealed house is normal. We look at your HVAC and ventilation and flag anything that should change.

Not usually. Foam needs to stick to clean, dry framing or sheathing, so old batts in the way get pulled out first. On an attic floor we can often seal around old insulation and add blown-in on top instead.

Closed cell can hide a slow leak longer than open cell, because it does not pass water. That is one reason open cell is common under roof decks here. Either way, we check the roof deck for stains and soft spots before spraying.

Louisiana adopted the 2021 IRC effective July 1, 2023 and treats the state as Climate Zone 2 for energy. The Insulation Institute summary lists R-38 for ceilings in new construction. Existing homes are not forced to upgrade, but DOE recommends R-49 to R-60 for an uninsulated Zone 2 attic.

If the attic is empty and the ducts are not up there, the floor is usually the cheaper and simpler choice. If the air handler and ducts are in the attic, foaming the roof deck brings them into a cooler space. We look at the layout and price what fits.

If the old insulation is dry and clean, yes, after the ceiling is sealed. DOE suggests adding R-38 to R-49 where 3 to 4 inches already exist in Zone 2. If it is wet, moldy or soiled by rodents, it should come out first.

Most single-family attic sealing and blown-in jobs take about a day. Roof deck foam can take longer and needs time for the foam to cure before you go back in.

Not always. If the crawl is dry, a good ground vapor barrier plus a sealed, insulated floor can be enough. If it is damp, smells musty or the floor insulation keeps falling, encapsulation is usually the more reliable fix.

A dehumidifier works in a sealed crawl space. In a vented one it ends up trying to dry outdoor air, which does not work well. Sealing comes first.

Often the batts have soaked up moisture from humid air and gotten heavy, or the supports were never installed. Wet batts should come out rather than be pushed back up.

DOE recommends about R-13 for an uninsulated floor in Climate Zone 2. In a sealed crawl, the walls get insulated instead of the floor.

Yes. Dense-pack blown-in goes in through small holes in each stud bay, from outside or inside, and the holes get patched. Foam is usually only practical in open walls.

The Insulation Institute's summary of the current code lists R-13 for wood-frame walls in Climate Zone 2. That applies to new work; older walls are not required to be upgraded.

In a standard 2x4 wall here, open cell is common and costs less. Closed cell fits shallow walls or spots with moisture concerns.

Yes, filled walls cut outside and room-to-room noise, and open-cell foam does that well.

Turn off the power, remove a switch or outlet cover on an outside wall and look beside the box with a flashlight. An infrared camera on a hot afternoon also shows empty bays. We check several walls during the estimate, because older houses are sometimes insulated in one room and empty in the next.

Only if it is wet, moldy, soiled or blocking air sealing. Clean, dry insulation can stay with new added on top.

Most attic removals take a day, with reinsulation the same day or the next.

Do not disturb it. Have it tested and, if needed, removed by a licensed abatement contractor; HomeAdvisor lists $1,190 to $3,255 for asbestos removal.

It can be, which is why we vacuum to bags outside and cover the path through the house.

Yes. Insulation soiled by rodents, or soaked by a roof leak or a damp crawl space, can give off odors that drift into the rooms below. Removing it, cleaning the space and sealing the ceiling or floor usually clears the smell, as long as the source of the water or pests is fixed too.

Closed-cell foam at proper thickness keeps humid air off the cold steel, which is what causes the drip. It works best when the seams and eaves are sealed too.

It depends on whether you will heat and cool the space. For drip control alone, a thinner coat can work; for a conditioned shop, more. We quote by thickness and R-value.

The building has to be cleared of animals, feed and equipment during spraying and while the foam cures.

Closed-cell foam can stiffen panels somewhat, but we sell it for insulation and condensation control, not as structural repair.

Yes, that is one of the main reasons people foam a shop. Sealing the seams, eaves and base and adding foam to a planned thickness keeps a window unit or mini-split from fighting the sun all afternoon. Tell us how you plan to cool the building so we can size the thickness.